My Fiesta Traction light wont turn off.

[Billy447]

Ford Fiesta 2010 Titanium

I don't know if this is related to the issue but the buttons on the steering wheel were not working other than cruise control, while vol & next buttons weren't so i decided to take it apart to clean it, I managed to do it without removing the airbag, after i reattached it presto! all the buttons were working. fast forward 2 weeks my traction light comes on dashboard on a dry day which i found strange & now it wont go away, decide to take to halfords,who didn't have a clue what to do other than give me card to a diagnostic specialist who examined my car with his over £2000 equipment but couldn't find any error codes. I'm out of pocket for 2 diagnostic charges now & I am reluctant to pay for another, the issue I'm having is engine power is reduced when the traction light is on, I cant accelerate uphill. Sometimes the traction light comes on immediately starting the engine & turning steering wheel, other times after 5 min drive, but as soon as it comes on engine power is reduced a message pops up saying engine failure service now. any help or similar experience would help. thank you...

 

[Handy Andy]

The TCS or Traction Control System, need communication from all the wheels - in a constant state.

That means all the cables to the individual sensors on each wheel - has to be connected.

You said this occurred on a dry day - which may mean road debris may have abraded the sensor and what was working is now broken or providing a connection - but not on or in - a reliable way - so it turns on the TSC - as a STEADY light to let you know something is wrong.

​

Now by what I'm reading in your post, is they have not seen any DTC or diagnostic trouble codes - they may be looking in the wrong area - this is a TCM/ABS system issue, not a simple PCM.

Why ABS and TCM? It is not an engine or emissions problem - well it's powertrain, but uses a subsystem - that you can get to, but you need the proper system to decode that information - it's under the ABS system.

ABS and TCS work together, so if the system is thinking it has a problem, it affects and uses and will wear down the ABS system - as you are experiencing as you drive and the loss of power. The wheel sensors not only need to send data, but they have to send it on a consistent basis - that means all wheels turning so the sensors then send a pulse train that the TCS system processes and can apply the brakes using the ABS system to do so.

If the sensors are faulty, it can not see any true sense of the "window of NORMAL operation" - all wheels turning at the same speed. Which - may be happening in reality, but if the wiring or sensors are bad, It cannot figure out the differences in flat roads, heavy steering or muddy gravel roads. A bad or intermittent sensor is telling the system it is not working right. so, it sets a light. So the system tries to figure out the problem but if too many errors, it will set the light.

 

[Handy Andy]

If your mechanic can't find this "code" even in ABS, remember that the system contstantly tests itself so it will try to turn off the light or at least verify the integrity as you start and drive off.

So if the light appears after you've seen it go away, means wiring or loose sensor or worse case - bad sensor(s).

So to turn on that light it has to store the code somewhere, so it will usually be in the HEC Head Electronic Console display - your pods and dashboard with all the idiot lights.

So you'll need to see how to enter into that test mode - Go Here

It will bring up the HEC test and you should be able to find that DTC for your TCS - then just google the code you see.

 

[scotman]

One other possibility could be that one or more of the wheel bearings might have loosened up. On my 2011 I got the same T/C inactive mil with no specific other codes. Turned out to be a right front wheel bearing was getting sloppy. New bearing and hub kit installed and the Mil went away. It would be worth checking it out given the age of the car.

 

[Billy447]

If your mechanic can't find this "code" even in ABS, remember that the system contstantly tests itself so it will try to turn off the light or at least verify the integrity as you start and drive off.

So if the light appears after you've seen it go away, means wiring or loose sensor or worse case - bad sensor(s).

So to turn on that light it has to store the code somewhere, so it will usually be in the HEC Head Electronic Console display - your pods and dashboard with all the idiot lights.

So you'll need to see how to enter into that test mode - Go Here

It will bring up the HEC test and you should be able to find that DTC for your TCS - then just google the code you see.

I have previously done the self test numerous times, Tried today & it wont do it, get the message test on dash release button & test just remains on dash nothing happens after 5 mins i exited. i tried 3 times and still nothing is happening.

 

[Billy447]

I Decided to buy a forscan adapter & here is the results. Also without touching any controls or steering & the car is stationary the error malfunction message comes on dash followed by the traction light & explanation mark in a circle. I know i need a EGR valve replacement but that shouldn't be connected to what I'm experiencing.

===FCDIM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Front Control/Display Interface Module

===END FCDIM DTC None===

===SRM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Speech Recognition Module

===END SRM DTC None===

===HVAC DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning

===END HVAC DTC None===

===RFA DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Remote Function Actuator

===END RFA DTC None===

===ACM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Audio Control Module

===END ACM DTC None===

===BCMii DTC B10A6:92-08===
Code: B10A6 - Main Light Switch

Additional Fault Symptom 92):
- Performance Or Incorrect Operation

Status (-08):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Body Control Module

===END BCMii DTC B10A6:92-08===

===PCM DTC P0489:00-E8===
Code: P0489 - EGR 'A' Control Circuit Low

Status (-E8):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC
- Test not complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Freeze Frame #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 412109044 s - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 171511 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage

Freeze Frame #2:
-EVENT_TIME: 412217208 s - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 171531 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage
===END PCM DTC P0489:00-E8===

===PCM DTC P2138:00-2F===
Code: P2138 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'D'/'E' Voltage Correlation

Status (-2F):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Freeze Frame #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 412212788 s - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 171531 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.5 V - Control Module Voltage
===END PCM DTC P2138:00-2F===

===OBDII DTC P0489-C===
Code: P0489 - EGR 'A' Control Circuit Low

Status (-43):
- Confirmed - malfunction is confirmed

Module: On Board Diagnostic II

===END OBDII DTC P0489-C===

===ABS DTC U0401:68-8A===
Code: U0401 - Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM A

Additional Fault Symptom 68):
- Event Information

Status (-8A):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Antilock braking system

===END ABS DTC U0401:68-8A===

===RCM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Restraint Control Module

===END RCM DTC None===

===PSCM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Power Steering Control Module

===END PSCM DTC None===

===IPC DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Instrument Panel Control Module

===END IPC DTC None===

 

[Mercurios2011]

Sometimes the abs wire gets a lil nicked , or the hub gets so covered in mud it won't read right ,you can inspect the wires yourself and look for kinks ,nicks , splits or maybe even broken.
for best results in my experience just replace as whole unit

 

[Handy Andy]

Ok, remember that TRAC control resets its condition at every START - so the system restores (or attempts to) the Traction Control system every time the vehicle is started.

So in a way, it clears the codes - but if a harness is bad, you get annoyed with the error messages and the ding dongs the systems are warning you.

So what @scotman - said about the wheel bearings - those ABS sensors are read by the ABS system - but it also looks at the Airbags (SRS) system at the same time.

Since you're not seeing any STORED DTC codes, the TRAC control system can be directly looked into - better off looking for a bad sensor or kinked / loose connector wiring somewhere - I love the idea of a bad wheel bearing - that would settle a lot of issues with bad sensors - seen those get sawn off by their rotary toothed wheels that they look to for, being that they "see" reluctor operation (hall effect devices)

​

But it's the U0401 from the ABS system - has me concerned...

The ABS is questioning the validity of PCM data - it's losing host communication.

So that could turn on a TRAC light - gotta take apart the console and look for the RCM module - it's right under and just in front (or behind it towards the rear if your looking from the drivers side at the shifter) of the shifter. You have to go over the wring - that Airbag unit also is working with the Restraint system to detect and offset the loss of traction and changes in direction of the vehicle is can sense as part of its SRS (Supplemental Restraint System - or AIRBAG) so that one module interconnects all those airbags and those impact sensors - and use the High speed CAM side to communicate to the Antilock braking system.

As I was going over your post earlier - I also need to mention about the work you did to the Steering wheel to get the audio functions working again. There is a 2-section wire harness that interconnects the wiring in the steering wheel, with a STATIONARY connector that bolts to the steering wheel column then it goes into the wiring harness and branches off from there. The main harness that is stationary is brought to the side of where your high-bean and flash to pass column switch is on. From there it turns into 1 dedicated Airbag harness and another smaller "Y" breakout harness for the Audio and Cruise control.

IN mine the second piece of these harnesses, the Airbag harness is yellow sleeved and connects to a blue box connector - while the other functions like Audio and the Cruise control - are through a 16-pin connector - again mounted by and at where that Airbag harness goes.

These two thread thru the main steering wheel "well" that houses the clockspring - this helps center the steering wheel - the sleeved wires are just long enough to let the wheel spin equally in either direction without pulling the wires or their connectors taught and doing damage - yanking them out.

The ABS airbags in the main horn section - you have two bombs wired to go off to inflate the main steering wheel airbag - so if you have done work to the controls on the steering wheel, this can affect the wiring - not necessarily there, the clockspring would and can still damage the harnesses that are designed to take the twisting of the steering wheel and survive for the lifetime of the steering column and wheel.

So just double check your wiring fix so you can avoid more damage to the system - the other part is with the SRS/RCM (Restraint Control Module) - that module is the one that looks at and communicates with ABS module at the ABS system inside the engine compartment.








So just verify you're not scraping or scuffing a pinched wire somewhere...