Starts well but sets "service engine" information and powers down engine upon shifting into 1st.

[Barberryn]

As title suggests, My 2014 Focus SE (standard transmission) will start fine and idle great. It revs nicely via the gas peddle.

Upon shifting into gear the engine starts to stumble and the gas peddle has limited effect. The yellow "information" dash light lights up and the information screen says to service engine. The car loses all power and can barely move itself along. However no CEL / SEL is lit and no codes can be found at the OBD2 port.

Anyone know where I should look to get this figured out?

The car has sat for over a year prior to me acquiring it and it had a frozen battery, which is now replaced.

 

[Handy Andy]

Long term storage...

IT needs some TLC - look at the emissions sticker under the hood, try to find out if the Engine you have in there is a TCI (Intake port injectors) or GDI - The Injectors are inside the engine - in the cylinder head (Direct injection).

You'd recognize them by one has a set of wires that goes into the center middle of the valve cover - that is a sign of GDI system.

The other uses little injectors along a fuel rail "box" they connect to and there is wiring harness linking all of them outside and in front of the valve cover. TCI (Or Throttle Intake side).

It sounds like sticky injectors - let the engine warm up and use some Seafoam or a good injector cleaner and use several bottles - after storage and depending upon the severity of the carbonizing it suffered (dried out carbon and exhaust deposits) it may take several highway trips to free up the injectors to get them working right.

There is a low-pressure and high pressure fuel rail switch on the GDI systems can can dry out and needs help in clearing out the glazing that dried fuel leaves behind in the port for it to sense when the system needs or doesn't need fuel.

Does not hurt to clean all the power-electrical connections at the battery to help with this.

 

[Barberryn]

Hi Andy and thanks for your advice. Here is some new info.
Battery is brand new, fully charged overnight and connections and main ground to chassis freshly cleaned.
Replaced the electric gas peddle to no improvement. Replaced the throttle control device (throttle body) to no improvement. The throttle plate twitches when starting but does not "sweep" or cycle Through its range. Now, more often than not, after starting fine, there is zero effect to engine when pushing gas peddle. The engine just idles. Occasionally, after a fresh start, the gas peddle will allow the engine to rev but the action is very sluggish, as if the peddle is just slightly depressed, while in fact, it is pushed down a lot.
Here are photos of the car, engine top and emissions tag. I will toss in a can of Seafoam as it cant hurt. Still grasping at straws.

 

[Handy Andy]

This sounds a bit more serious than a simple "problematic fuel injector issue".

Since it's not setting DTC codes, but the pedal is not making any revs for the motor.

There are "hacks" however you have a Focus, but this may be more of a PCM communication issue.

The Focus you have is Direct Inject so it's a GDI - so that means the injectors are not ruled out - just the fuel delivery system is still suspect.

Since this is a forum and I don't have your car in front of me I can only go so fer - but this might help provide you some direction in which to proceed...




The Gas pedal on the Focus uses two "pots" one set up to read low to high while another reads high to low.

Referring to a way it sweeps the pedal and reports the resistance - these are Drive by wire, so the system is not seeing the changes - that information goes to the PCM - so the door pillar - the front kick panel - might have to be pulled and the main harness investigated.

So it's pretty simple you just keep the ignition on, but don't start the car - and remove the snorkel that has the MAF sensor on it - just detach the sensor connector to help remove the hose, but re-install the connector to power the MAF sensor during the test and let the hose dangle out of the way of the throttle plate view when you're ready to check the throttle body to wiring to pedal check.

Just have someone move the pedal and tell you how far down it is, and just observe operation using an inspection mirror or your phone camera to make a movie - just watch the plate move and have the helper call out the different "angles" they're pushing the pedal so you can watch the operation.

IF the pedal can be set to pretty much any angle - then the test passes - your issue is them more with the fuel pressure regulator and the high-and-low pressure switches used to "regulate" the regulator so it can deliver enough fuel to start and operate the car.

So if the system has not done an "idle learn" - that requires you to do the process - you pull the battery positive cable - and short it to ground to release charge in the fitler capacitors and force a memory reset - I did up a process of that is a Fiesta forum thread.

https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/body-control-modual.8227/post-20378

The above link may help you in this process.

You also have to know that each throttle body resistance measured at "start" is slightly different - is a factor of the environment and the power applied to the system...

This might be a bit more than you need to know but it may help you understand what the relearn process does...



So the relearn is needed so the system can figure out the idle angle to set the idle speed and it's mixture in all conditions correctly.

It's also why I showed you the engine compartment of what I'm referencing - for the Idle quality is also affected by another valve that acts like a splitter and keeps the brake booster supplied with vacuum so you can have power assisted brakes - on top of the fact that the vacuum line itself pulls in air and puts it in the intake - past the throttle plate - so when you are driving you have more air arriving into the system than just the throttle body's own plate positioning - it's thru that regulator arriving under or past the throttle - and affects the drivability of the car.

The other aspect that can affect the drivability is that fuel pressure regulator - it uses a pretty big spring and diaphragm in it to regulate and keep fuel pressure ABOVE the compression pressure in the combustion chamber - that's the GDI part - that injector is inside the cylinder not in front of the intake vales (TDCi) OR TBi or TCi). So there is more pressure the fuel system has to work against - but it also make this more efficient in some ways so the cylinder gets the fuel charge directly and not have to wait for the intake stroke and the injector or carburetors fuel charge - to get in there and hopefully ignite.

So it sounds like, to me, you'll have to do a relearn, because the throttle body is new - and the fuel pressure regulator will need some TLC - but - I will have to let you digest the above so we can go from there.

 

[Barberryn]

Andy - Again, thanks so much for your assistance. Its a fantastic resource.

First - about me - I am an Engineer and mechanic with 42 years experience, mostly in the diesel and marine environments. This gives me the ability to appreciate your great explanation on fords D. By W. system. I also say this so you know that I should know my way around the basics of the engine to assist you in further helping me - and hopefully others - out.
I studied your posting and the ones you sent to Wallyb07 as well.

FYI - I opened the original gas peddle. The side cover only reveals its hinge and spring return parts and is an otherwise sealed compartment. The "sweeper" is simply a finger with a magnet attached. The real heart of the peddle is the "cover" containing the electrical connector. It can be removed by inserting two small thin flat blades into the retaining arm slots and prying the arms towards the center of the cover. Then prying it off with a third flat blade screwdriver should pop open. The cover holds a small circuit card with an imbedded "induction coil" and two "IC's", that make up the low to high and high to low circuits. Sorry, I forgot to grab a photo.

Now - to work. Both my original and replacement throttle actuator (throttle body) have been gently cleaned with throttle body cleaner spray and soft cotton rags. Prior to posting, I did a car computer wipe/reset and then upon starting allowed a full warm up without touching the gas peddle to allow fuel trim to calculate and learn. Then after letting the car cool down, restarted with the gas peddle held to the floor during initial cranking for it to relearn and sync to the throttle body actuator. (actually as I have been working on the car for a few days now have done these procedures several times) This yielded no results or improvements. I also had my son start the car while I watched the throttle plate. ( results stated in post #3 but I will repeat here) The throttle plate twitches when starting but does not "sweep" or cycle Through its range. This applies to both of my throttle bodies. Neither will shift substantially to any other position while in operation, other than the occasional twitch when starting or if the clutch is depressed and released; regardless of throttle peddle positions.

Next steps - as it is Easter, all stores are closed in my area. Tomorrow I will get the Seafoam and dose the fuel tank. In the mean time I will expose the main harness and look for mouse chew spots. Can I ask; where is the PCM located so I only pull the required panels and not need to trash the entire interior looking for it? I am thinking of replacing the PCM if I can't find anything else obviously wrong. Its just hateful throwing parts at the car, hoping it will solve an issue.

 

[Barberryn]

Troubleshooting continues. Inspected and passed :

fuse F12 (30A) ECM relay feed
fuse F36 (10A) ECM
fuse F38 (15A) ECM
relay R14 ECM relay
Found ECM in a black box behind and below the left headlight. You need to remove headlight assembly and the wheel well plastic liner to access it.
Seafoam in gas tank and a splash in the lube oil as per can dosage.

Still no luck finding issue.

 

[Handy Andy]

Ok, to help -

Locate that cover thingy - the one I posted to earlier as the Fuel Delivery system - the housing holds two sensors - a low and high pressure sensor.

To really know which is which, is to know by the size of the wrench it needs to use to remove the sensor.

Small sized wrench - low pressure - Larger wrench - (usually that sensor is to the outside towards the Driver side) - needs the larger wrench to remove that high pressure sensor..

So they use connectors - might want to run an ohmic check - see if the sensors are toggling when Fuel is needed or let it run down to low - then asks for more fuel.

Then further down - under it - is the TCM - that can also generate several problems - but you also see notes on the heads up display - as Transmission Service engine now - type of error. IF you're not getting that, then the problem can still be with the TCM - but we have to rule out fuel first - it's the easier of the ones to check.

Also - thanks for letting me know I'm dealing with considerable levels of experience - so it tells me I'm just a duck - but what I have had to do to keep going - is in these two areas - TCM requires a lot of current for the shifts to occur (Battery and Alternator), while the Fuel pump is kinda trigger happy and may not fully extend and compress the diaphragm in it - so it forces lean to rich to lean "hits" and stumbles and it's due to those sensors not timing the fuel delivery pressure correctly.

However if it's is given time - the pressure sender problems tend to fade - but it also requires the GDi injectors to be exercised a little while so they can reseat and redevelop a fuel spray that actually gets to the plug and fires the cylinder when you're under load. The Pandemic taught me (us) a lot about that.

Now, to double check your work, keep the two throttle body's. So if needed you can swap, because if you know where the connector is at, you also know it's quite unprotected. I just hope you didn't have a critter living in the engine compartment while it was in storage - they can get hungry and eat their way thru a smorgasbord of wires and the soy-based insulation they have on them - as lunch, dinner and occasionally bacon. - I'm referring to poor connections or bad ground return.

It may be a good idea to inspect the Spark plugs - see if they are fouled or otherwise have some type of clue in deposits so we can figure out the reason - else I'm not ruling out condensate water in the fuel too...

 

[Barberryn]

Thanks again Andy for the help and additional leads for me to track down.

You mention TCM. My car is a standard transmissionI don't think it has a TCM. I cant find it, if there is one.

I pulled the main ECM/PCM from under the headlight but found its connections well secure and dry internally. Photo added.

I will check out the fuel sensors but am thinking its not really the issue as if they were, it would not start so easily and idle well, but once the gas peddle or clutch is touched, there is a definitive change in sound like a mode has changed, and the gas peddle then has zero input control, no matter where its positioned.

 

[Handy Andy]

Very odd indeed, PCM is in pretty good condition - fuses ok? (I know you've checked them, but the issue is not that the Fuses are ok, its the base seat they are pressed into - if that is corroded wiring then we have a much different ballgame)

Ok, you have the MANUAL transmission - sorry, thought your hesitation was from the Automatic side.

Remember in that third post I asked if you had someone work the throttle when it was not running? Were you able to confirm the throttle plate moves easily and as the helper calls out - you can see the changes?

Then the issue may not be with the throttle - how does the snorkel look?

Referring to the MAF sensor - the one on the filter housing.- when I went back to your photos...I saw this "dead grass" - thought it was below, on the ground - you didn't have a critter in there - did you?

The throttle has/uses 5 wire with common ground (6 total - but grounds are tied to their respective pin returns) - so you verified that the throttle seems to be ok, but we also need a check of the wiring condition. (that throttle plate is moving - sort of thing) - which when the engine has started and running sounds like it's not - leading back to the Accelerator Pedal Position sensor (APP) - which would also set some form of a DTC.

And does the exhaust system - seem ok?

When you start to apply throttle - it gives up all bets off sort of thing.

So I would like to see it start - wondering if it jumped time or one of the actuators that affects the cam timing is left in a state so the engine can't advance the valve timing - that would set a code though - so you'd see something in the DTC. Curious to know if the dashboard - once the engine is started - do the lights stay off?

That engine I think, has no EGR - being Manual

So if no codes, but dies, certainly pedal - but then too - you got this car put in a parked state - so I'm still thinking critters

Just need to see if the wiring got eaten - you should be able to probe those wires and get voltage readings off of them - when measured across to the Ground wire that is there.

Again, I don't have your car in front of me on where to start looking except the kick panel to see if the APP in the harness is working. So you'll have to back probe the connector and see is ground is EQUAL for both "pots" one though may be a Hall effect device I believe - so it only gets a reference that the pedal is moving as it sorts out the direction that sensor is telling it to move.

A similar Hall effect can be on the throttle body too.

 

[Barberryn]

Yes, all ECM fuses and the relay swapped out with new ones, even though the originals checked out fine. Frustration driving me to swap even the fuses out.

More symptom information:
When engine running, unplugging the fuel pressure regulator stops its clicking noise and sets a OBD code. Plugging back in returns that functionality to normal.
Unplugging the fuel pressure sensor (or switch ?) on the steel line from the tank that is between the engine and the firewall makes no difference and does not set a code. I suspect that pressure sensor. Ford pn. CM5327

Car off but key to on position. Following gauge sweep, if gas peddle is touched, it sets the dash " service engine " information page. Also, the car will not allow an oil change information reset as the "service engine " page is up and will not clear once gas peddle has been touched.

Again - engine starts quickly and easily, idles smoothly. Only when gas peddle is touched do we lose its "input". The engine never dies. It continues to idle smoothly , just will not respond to the gas peddles inputs. It runs about 800 rpm in neutral and with clutch depressed climbs to 1K and when clutch released will drop back to 800, as it is supposed to. On occasion after a restart, while the information page is up - as it always is - the gas peddle has limited input so if you are gentle and give less than 1/4 throttle, you can raise the engine idling speed as high as 4 K but it is very sluggish to get to that rpm.

The throttle actuator plate has been observed many times now and it is manually ( fingers pushing) able to smoothly move through its full sweep. In operation it does twitch but does not sweep or travel any amount when engine running regardless of peddle position.

Its like the engine goes into a limp or "protect" mode as soon as the gas peddle is touched and the key is in the on/run position - no matter if the engine is actually running or not.

The rubber snorkel tube in in great shape and no debris was found in the MAF sensor or the snorkel tube or in the inlet to the intake manifold.
I forgot to check out the fuel injection main pressure sensor hidden in the area under the intake manifold. I am off to do that now.

 

[Barberryn]

Operationally tested the "Injection rail main fuel pressure sensor" by unplugging it. Engine would crank but not start. Once plugged in, engine started well, so i guess that one is good.
This sensor in on the front right side of the engine, just under the arch of the intake manifold.
I am waiting on a new "supply fuel pressure sensor/switch". PN: cm5327.

 

[Handy Andy]

Didn't know the condition of the pedal wiring - but when the throttle pedal is "bad" - and even the original one does the same thing - I have had bad wires - those female connector sockets that mate the male body pins - go bad.

Have you tried to see if back probing the connector to the throttle pedal - there is a ground wire in that harness that connects to a bolt in the front firewall by that kickpanel trim - it's buried in there.

I have had instances where I have had to locate another bolt or make a bolt a stud (piano wire and pull thru a knockout) along with a kepp nut or serrated one - just to bite the ground metal and mount new ground there.

Not the funnest job.

This comes up when OEM connector and the new part that replaces the old part, the pins are off just enough to prevent the wiping and pinch action the female side does to grip the pin, The Socket side just lays loose and doesn't make proper contact. The original pins are oversized to the newer pins so the Female side developed a memory of the oversized fit the previous one made..

It's why you sometimes see some sensors - with the label - "Per OEM specifications" as a disclaimer to performance and warranty issues.

Else the pedal - being what it is, and if swapping the original - still does the same thing - there are only two options and Occam's razor is starting to show.

​

You have a pedal in your hand that got upgraded - or the OEM one was swapped and you got a bum one - the only way to know that is to double check the VIN engine code and the recommended pedal number to use...

...or...

The wiring from the Pedal is not making the trip back to the Dashboard and or PCM to tell it to move.- broken wire or poor ground - can't find "center" because as you already know - the pots use the source and ground potential difference to send a variable voltage signal to the PCM, and also the Dashboard.

... Third condition ...

You're working on getting a new sender sensor (that one under the intake - I believe) - is low pressure - the High pressure one is back at that can and looks for that diaphragm to strike it telling the system it has enough fuel pressure to make the GDI work.

But as part of it's troubleshooting effort, every time to "start" the vehicle - the APP (Pedal Position Sensor) is "zeroed" out by the system trying to find IDLE position reference - part of the learning process - the engine remembers and patterns afterwards looking at other sensors to make the start engine and run more smoothly and stay within emissions - easier as the engine learns.

So if poor ground - it can see it's hooked up - but the voltage is out of range so it puts itself in limp mode.

The big clue here is you can't make the throttle plate move with the pedal position - so that is a PCM to DASHBOARD and Throttle to APP communication problem.

Why? Because in several lines of the Focus model and even Fusion and Contour - they used Hall effect and carbon wiper in ways that were not interchangeable - but the connectors fit - so the wiring didn't work - but the pedal worked in other vehicles of the SAME line - just not is specific ones that used dual wiper pots, or hall-effect and wiper - because the PCM needed variable - and the Dashboard only needed Hall positioning (low resolution) and vice a-versa.

It's not too far out of the ballpark to know if - when you parked the car and it sat - and nothing else happened, then the "critters" and "Oxides of March" are marching into this scenario...

Now to bring up the "limp in" mode, that is possible - but you'd see that notification right away and the condition usually clears once the battery pull and reseat is completed to reset the flag on that.

But I've been able to clear the condition by reseating the throttle body connector and even the APP connector - and was able to start and drive off without having to reset and relearn - so I know the PCM checks for conditions on an ongoing basis.

This is certainly an interesting one..